Here's a secret: I'm not all that interested in cameras. I know the basics that go into getting a picture on film, but I'm lost when things get complicated.
But I've always liked photography, so when I had some extra money eight years ago, I bought a Nikon F50 camera (Aka N50). I shot some rolls, and made a simple discovery: It stunk. It was more like an advanced point and shoot, with little thinking left to the photographer. Which is me. And I like to think before I do stuff.
Several years later I bought my Nikon Coolpix 800, my first and only digital camera (which I still love). But I still wanted a proper SLR camera, to learn the basics of photography. A local shop had the Nikkormat FT2 for sale, and I traded it for my F50.That deal is getting better year by year. I have never been let down by my Nikkormat. The meter needs a battery, other than that it's all manual. I have taken it with me everywhere (beaches of France, Rome, the Norwegian mountains), and it's always ready to shoot.
The thing I like the most is that you have to do pretty much everything. There is a light meter (it also works without it), but beyond that you're on your own: sharpness, aperture, proper film loading etc is up to you.
The result is much more satisfying when you deserve a lot of the credit. And thank God this camera was made way before the age of portrait, close-up, silhouette and action modes built in. As Aretha Franklin so wisely sung: Think!The Nikkormats were Nikon's cheaper SLRs in the 1970s. But the camera uses the same lenses as the classic (and may I add, much more expensive) models F and F2.
Nikkormats are among the cheapest manual Nikon SLRs available, and getting a used one shouldn't be too hard. If you want to learn more about the Nikkormat, the best place to start is this site.
- Key facts:
- Manual focus camera, accepts lenses with "rabbit ears". I have 50mm, 28mm and 105 mm lenses. Nikkormat FT2 was produced in the mid-1970s.
- ASA (ISO) range: 12-1600
- Shutter speeds: 1/1000 second - B (shutter stays open as long as you press it)
- Exposure metering (light): Centre-weighted. You see 92% of the actual picture when looking through the viewfinder.
- Depth of field: By pressing the button on the top right side of the body, you see how much is out of focus with your current settings. After a while you get a pretty good idea just by judging your aperture and shutter settings.
- Mirror lock-up: Handy for situations when you want to reduce mirror vibration. Situated to the left of the lens. (the long gray button on the picture to the right)
My Nikkormat in all its dusted glory.
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Another Nikkormat gallery
I sold my F3 and FM3s years ago, but the FT3 and FM remain. When not shooting digital these remain my favorite cameras of all time.
The 105 (both F2.5 and F1.8 version) is a legendary portrait lens. I've always wanted one, but strangely whenever I've had the money, something else always came up, and when I was broke I would find a good deal. Ultimately I bought the 100mm E lens about a decade ago for a song and have never desired to trade up since. Not that the 105s aren't special, they are, but the 100 E is also an extremely superior lens that is a lot lighter.
I was so impressed by the 100 that I bought the cheap E wideangle and sold off my Nikkors. I found the lighter weight a real advantage and any difference in image quality is beyond my ability to detect.